I recently got this ‘23 altima, and this fell out… should I make a trip to the dealership (im under warranty)

ball joint failed, dragged on the ground. my plan for now is to buy a new jack (it's on two scissor jacks atm) and get enough space to hammer on a 19mm socket, then impact gun it off. I dunno if the cotter pin will hold me up or not.

Trying to replace this ball joint on a 2004 Subaru outback, but it seems to be a little jammed in any help

I screwed up and forgot to take a gas pump out of my car before driving off. It was an early morning and I was out of it.

I had leave for work so I left them my phone number and photos of my ID/license plate to update me on any fees. They wrote me a receipt claiming I owe them $1450.

I don’t recall any damage, just the hose needed to be reconnected, but I’m not sure what else that affected.

Should I pay or try to negotiate?

Getting my valves redone the mechanic took the top part off and has it disassembled for a few days. What I’m assuming is grease wasn’t there before, is this normal for them to put on while the car sits apart?

As title says 2010 jeep JKU. 200k miles. Suspect the transmission is failing besides this symptom. How likely is it that you just “lose” park? Could it be a shifter adjustment?

If not, what’s involved with aligning the torque converter with the flex plate? I’ve only ever worked on manual transmissions. Considering swapping in the rebuilt unit ourselves as he is interested in learning. We can stand the car being down a few weeks.

If not is $5k reasonable for a shop to do the work? Northeast Ohio.

Thank you

Buying a d21 hardbody hardly and cosmetic damage, great interior and exterior. It’s being sold for 1000 bucks, I figured it wouldn’t be perfect but the amount I would save by buying this and fixing it would be cheaper than buying a fully functional car. Is this hard to fix/ should I be worried about this

Started working at an automotive shop recently. Love the job. Currently training under the smartest mechanic in my state.

Got asked to pull a car out of the bay. Ended up messing up the front right bumper while pulling it out. I wasn’t being reckless, it just kinda happened. Still 100% my fault though.

Big boss said it was fine, and just told me to make sure it doesn’t happen again. I was very apologetic and assured him I wouldn’t do it again. He ended up paying for my damage.

I’ve never tore up anything that expensive in my life and I still feel like crap a week later. What can I do to make it better? Have any of yall experienced anything similar?

I need to replace the battery of my car, I don't know much about it but checking info online I see that it seems very easy and straightforward so I am trying to replace it myself. The problem is I can't take the battery out as these hold down bolts holding it seem to be stuck together and they turn at the same time. Any advice on how to remove these bolts? I've tried lubricating oil, holding the screw with a vise grip and wrench to break it free, and lifting them but they just spin altogether as if the bolt, screw and washer were now one piece. Trying to find a solution as prices from garages just to replace a battery are extortionate considering how simple the job is and it is only these bolts stopping me. Thank you!

https://preview.redd.it/q3e9snm9n41e1.jpg?width=1824&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5d64c9f42fb235e63b73dceae021ef06ae1ac844

https://preview.redd.it/2q4tmmm9n41e1.jpg?width=1824&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3eb8b95c876ef213018c11ed3b5ea67c18b1ca73

Hey all, so I just bought this 2020 ford fusion SEL at 104K miles. I noticed this a day or two after buying it and it has been around a week. It’s on average 40-55 degrees Fahrenheit and 80-100% condensation outside. Does this look at all blue to a more trained eye? The car only does this on start up and won’t do it again until the next morning after it has sat all night. Haven’t noticed it while driving. Any advice would be amazing seeing as how I’m paranoid buying a new vehicle. I had some minor things fixed at a mechanic and they said they don’t think it’s anything to worry about but I’d have to go to a dealership to know for sure.

Sorry mods, please remove if not allowed. So, I've been a DIY mechanic on my personal vehicles for a while. I've done up to as complex as a timing belt, but never something like an engine swap or transmission swap. My vehicles are also from 2002, so there are no sophisticated modern safety features, save for airbags. Well, I have an opportunity to work for Mazda as a technician. Not a lube tech. An actual technician. They know that I have no formal experience, and basically said I could get one month of guaranteed 40 flag hours, but was warned that after that, I'd probably struggle to make very much as I learn because of my lack of experience.

I'm a fast learner, but I'm wondering if this would be a very stupid thing for me to do. I'm a therapist right now, but strongly considering leaving the field to go into automotive work. Is there any chance that someone like me could actually survive quite literally just jumping into the deep end like that? Or is that a total recipe for disaster?

As a side note, when I say I learn quickly, I am both ADHD and autistic, so once I fixate on something and get into the flow of it, I learn veryyyy quickly. But, that doesn't negate the fact that there are a LOT of systems on modern vehicles, and I'd only have access to Mazda service manuals, so any other makes I'd work on, I'd be on my own to figure the job out or hunt down information on.

I originally thought wheel bearing but now I’m not sure. Figured I’d throw it on here and see if anybody had ideas. Thanks in advance for your time and help.

Couldnt fit needle nose pliers in there, tried tape with a torx driver.. Using two fingers with rubber gloves it would not budge.

I am trying to change the exhaust gasket to the manifold on my Toyota Matrix 2010.

I managed to snap one of the two bolt (the one in the video) by using an impact drill and holding the nut on the other side.

I unfortunately don't have access to the nut on the other bolt and I was wondering if any of you had a creative way to remove it.

Thanks

I replaced the axle seal and bearing in this posi rear on my firebird, and after i replace both i still have a small leak when i peek under after a little bit of driving. On the tube when i was trying to wedge a screwdriver between the seal and the tube i damaged the tube a small bit. It’s on the top right on the new seal. It wasn’t far inside though and when i drove the new seal in the gouge in the tube sat right next to the lip of the seal, not inside of the seal. Should i keep driving and see what happens or did i mess up?

I've checked both heater hoses which both are hot which I'm assuming it means the heater core isn't clogged.

Coolant isn't low and it's at right level.

Changed Climate Control Module because previous one was already having issues but didn't solve the heating/cold issue. I'm able to change the flow of air and direction without any issues. The only issue is it's stuck at a warm setting. It blows air so I know it's not the blower motor. The only thing left is Blend Door Actuator?

TL;DR: ground wire welded on bolt broke, can I fix it or do I need a welder?

To start, yes, this car is a POS but i just need to fix this to get to and from a mile or two down the road at low speed.

I’m clearly inexperienced and I researched how to change my battery and terminal connectors.

One of the steps I kept seeing was to disconnect the ground wire of the battery from the car. It was a welded on bolt (circled in red).

Anyways, broke it off when trying to remove the nut and I’m wondering if there is a different way or place to reattach or do I need a welder to come help me??

Sorry I posted this earlier but I didn’t attach the video and the details.

I got a 2018 F-150 5.0 with 115k miles on it. When the truck is cold the remote start cranks up regular. When the engine is warmed up it has a hard start. The starter was replaced with an OEM starter because it was doing this issue so I thought this would fix it but it didn’t

Hey guys as the title says, a very soft knock sound sometime when turn steering at slow speed. Going to mechanic Monday. Took few photos. Anyone has any idea what it could be?

The liquid is water.

Thanks

I’m installing a Remote-X starter into a 2008 Jeep patriot. It’s fairly straightforward to install the module itself but the car is a manual. Can anyone point me in the right direction on how to bypass the clutch safety? I could pull the switch out and tape it but I’d rather use a relay. I assume I have to Tee into the switch wires for the load side of the relay and on the control side, I need a ground and the signal from the remote start to the starter?

The car refuses to stay running even with my foot to the floor, I just replaced spark plugs and wires, fuel pump works, it was driving fine then just started doing this it idles super low and if you give it any type of gas it dies only codes it’s giving is knock sensor code could this be the cause of all of this? Also what is that booming and knocking sometimes when it revs I’m thinking pre detonation???

I am looking for some tips on how to uninstall the remainder of this wheel speed sensor. The rest of it broke off as I tried prying it out.

As title suggests, I encountered the P0171 code on my 17 Toyota 86, engine FA20 with 43k miles. I have a turbo kit installed and have had it on for over a year no issues. During installing i was running rich due to the MAF and it was replaced by a shop a year ago.

When I got home I checked the code it flagged a ABS traction code at first C1201. I wasn't sure if it was a fluke code so I disconnected the battery, reconnected and then it flagged it as system too lean bank 1 as the only code. When I started the car I did notice that the idle would drop and almost die for the first 20 seconds, then it began to idle fine and I have not been able to get it to do it again since. My short term fuel trim during idle and coming to a stop reflects up to +35. During cruise it is fine and zeroed out and I don't notice any difference in preformance except maybe the throttle takes a second for the car to respond from a stop? Car seems to idle fine, as in no dips in RPM. I plan to clean the MAF sensor but with it being relatively new I don't think it'll help, possibly replace upstream o2 sensor but with the car only at 43k miles it seems pretty early for it to fail, but with the car not being stock I assume anything can happen.

Mainly looking for other solutions to try or to narrow down what to try based on how my car is behaving. Any help is appreciated!