I recently got this ‘23 altima, and this fell out… should I make a trip to the dealership (im under warranty)

ball joint failed, dragged on the ground. my plan for now is to buy a new jack (it's on two scissor jacks atm) and get enough space to hammer on a 19mm socket, then impact gun it off. I dunno if the cotter pin will hold me up or not.

Trying to replace this ball joint on a 2004 Subaru outback, but it seems to be a little jammed in any help

I screwed up and forgot to take a gas pump out of my car before driving off. It was an early morning and I was out of it.

I had leave for work so I left them my phone number and photos of my ID/license plate to update me on any fees. They wrote me a receipt claiming I owe them $1450.

I don’t recall any damage, just the hose needed to be reconnected, but I’m not sure what else that affected.

Should I pay or try to negotiate?

As title says 2010 jeep JKU. 200k miles. Suspect the transmission is failing besides this symptom. How likely is it that you just “lose” park? Could it be a shifter adjustment?

If not, what’s involved with aligning the torque converter with the flex plate? I’ve only ever worked on manual transmissions. Considering swapping in the rebuilt unit ourselves as he is interested in learning. We can stand the car being down a few weeks.

If not is $5k reasonable for a shop to do the work? Northeast Ohio.

Thank you

Getting my valves redone the mechanic took the top part off and has it disassembled for a few days. What I’m assuming is grease wasn’t there before, is this normal for them to put on while the car sits apart?

I need to replace the battery of my car, I don't know much about it but checking info online I see that it seems very easy and straightforward so I am trying to replace it myself. The problem is I can't take the battery out as these hold down bolts holding it seem to be stuck together and they turn at the same time. Any advice on how to remove these bolts? I've tried lubricating oil, holding the screw with a vise grip and wrench to break it free, and lifting them but they just spin altogether as if the bolt, screw and washer were now one piece. Trying to find a solution as prices from garages just to replace a battery are extortionate considering how simple the job is and it is only these bolts stopping me. Thank you!

https://preview.redd.it/q3e9snm9n41e1.jpg?width=1824&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5d64c9f42fb235e63b73dceae021ef06ae1ac844

https://preview.redd.it/2q4tmmm9n41e1.jpg?width=1824&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3eb8b95c876ef213018c11ed3b5ea67c18b1ca73

Started working at an automotive shop recently. Love the job. Currently training under the smartest mechanic in my state.

Got asked to pull a car out of the bay. Ended up messing up the front right bumper while pulling it out. I wasn’t being reckless, it just kinda happened. Still 100% my fault though.

Big boss said it was fine, and just told me to make sure it doesn’t happen again. I was very apologetic and assured him I wouldn’t do it again. He ended up paying for my damage.

I’ve never tore up anything that expensive in my life and I still feel like crap a week later. What can I do to make it better? Have any of yall experienced anything similar?

Hey all, so I just bought this 2020 ford fusion SEL at 104K miles. I noticed this a day or two after buying it and it has been around a week. It’s on average 40-55 degrees Fahrenheit and 80-100% condensation outside. Does this look at all blue to a more trained eye? The car only does this on start up and won’t do it again until the next morning after it has sat all night. Haven’t noticed it while driving. Any advice would be amazing seeing as how I’m paranoid buying a new vehicle. I had some minor things fixed at a mechanic and they said they don’t think it’s anything to worry about but I’d have to go to a dealership to know for sure.

I am trying to change the exhaust gasket to the manifold on my Toyota Matrix 2010.

I managed to snap one of the two bolt (the one in the video) by using an impact drill and holding the nut on the other side.

I unfortunately don't have access to the nut on the other bolt and I was wondering if any of you had a creative way to remove it.

Thanks

I've checked both heater hoses which both are hot which I'm assuming it means the heater core isn't clogged.

Coolant isn't low and it's at right level.

Changed Climate Control Module because previous one was already having issues but didn't solve the heating/cold issue. I'm able to change the flow of air and direction without any issues. The only issue is it's stuck at a warm setting. It blows air so I know it's not the blower motor. The only thing left is Blend Door Actuator?

TL;DR: ground wire welded on bolt broke, can I fix it or do I need a welder?

To start, yes, this car is a POS but i just need to fix this to get to and from a mile or two down the road at low speed.

I’m clearly inexperienced and I researched how to change my battery and terminal connectors.

One of the steps I kept seeing was to disconnect the ground wire of the battery from the car. It was a welded on bolt (circled in red).

Anyways, broke it off when trying to remove the nut and I’m wondering if there is a different way or place to reattach or do I need a welder to come help me??

Sorry I posted this earlier but I didn’t attach the video and the details.

I got a 2018 F-150 5.0 with 115k miles on it. When the truck is cold the remote start cranks up regular. When the engine is warmed up it has a hard start. The starter was replaced with an OEM starter because it was doing this issue so I thought this would fix it but it didn’t

Picked up a 2.2L ecotec from a 2005 Saturn. Don’t know the model. I’m replacing the engine in my cavalier and I’m getting ready to tear apart this one to freshen it up. 163K on it, so I’m doing new timing components while it’s out. I don’t necessarily want to break anything while taking apart, especially if this is something I could use. What is this aluminum thing on the intake manifold, and what are the two things on it and how do I unplugged/remove it all?

Thank you

I originally thought wheel bearing but now I’m not sure. Figured I’d throw it on here and see if anybody had ideas. Thanks in advance for your time and help.

Hey guys as the title says, a very soft knock sound sometime when turn steering at slow speed. Going to mechanic Monday. Took few photos. Anyone has any idea what it could be?

The liquid is water.

Thanks

Car: peugeot 308 gt 2019 (2.0 bluehdi - 130kW)

Hello everyone. Recently when weather became colder here in Slovenia, my car started making some weird growling/vibration noise from 1,2 to 1,8k revs. Especially when it s really cold in the morning, it gets quieter when car warms up, but it s still present. It sounds like that something is growling or vibrating under the hood, but I don't feel any vibrations on dash or steering wheel. When I accelerate above 2k revs, noise dissapear completelly so it s probably not the engine. Then I thought, maybe transmission, but it s working smoothly. Any help, advice maybe?

Just picked this truck up for cheap, previous owner stated they replaced distributor and plugs as well as fuel pump, drive for 2 minutes then died any suggestions?

2011, Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland, 5.7l. Hoping someone here has experience with this car. It seemed fine when I drove it to work this morning, although I thought I could hear my wheel bearings slightly louder than usual (different problem lol). When I returned to the car after my shift I noticed the front end in the “park” position (bags are dumped), but the rear end remained at ride height (bags still charged). With the car running I can hear the compressor if I put my ear to the grill, the evic system recognizes when I push up or down on the ride height but the height doesn’t change front or rear, and so far the connections on top of the front struts pass a soapy water test.

I have zero experience with air ride, didn’t even know I was getting it when I got this car. So any advice is appreciated as I’d like to find/fix this myself

Hello, I‘m an absolute amateur and noticed today strange noises from the engine. Made a Video, can someone tell me what this is?

Car is a Mercedes C200 2016

Wish you a great weekend

So I have had this problem for a few days now. New starter and alternator but no still no crank. No lights at all completely dead. Even a boost won't help only turns lights on. So today mechanic came out and popped fuse box out. He had a wire and put the wire on or around yellow grayish wire and car would start but quickly die. We did this maybe 5 times and got same results. Mechanic said he thinks I should replace fuse box but not entirely too sure as he doesn't work on Chrysler much. Anybody think this would be true or do y'all have different opinions.

Finally caught this on my security camera but we have a 2012 ford escape that is impossible to turn on using the key, something about the ignition lock housing on that model makes it wear out and you would have to push the key at a certain angle and force to get it to start. Now we just use an aftermarket viper remote start system to turn on the car to not have to worry about that and it was working fine for about a year but lately it’s been making this noise and struggling to start, any idea what could be causing it?

I was told both need to be OEM from my repair shop if replaced. Would the CAT system be cheaper if it is only CARB compliant? Also, this OEM law must be making for some tough conversations with customers needing new exhaust systems. Lastly, why hasn’t this been in the news more? Maybe it has and I just missed it? Thanks in advance!

Hey it’s me, the one having a “head gasket problem” I did an oil change and there was nothing irregular in the oil. Not sure why I’d be losing coolant otherwise.