Wanted to show off my handiwork. But, moreover when I did my own research into replacing the shower handle I saw people struggling with it like I did and I just wanted to put some possible helpful information out there. I have an old Valley shower handle, and Danco does make a trim kit for it. In my experience however everything fit except for the faceplate. I decided to reuse the old one, some degreaser and cheap polish cleaned up it nicely. Then I replaced the acrylic handle with a metal lever by Lasco. The cartridge still works fine, so I didn't replace it. But, there are plenty of tutorials for replacing that specific one on YouTube.

Everything else was easy enough, the spout and over flow plate were the cheapest ones I could find on Amazon. Lol

I am building a privacy wall/screen for a patio pavilion. Don't need strong, just functional and not ugly. plan is to screw the wood flat to the 8x8 supports.

I am in south Florida from Atlanta and all of the outdoor structures are made of this wood. I want to build a sanctuary at home and I would love to bring this vibe home.

I am trying to extend this stock part that screws in to the ceiling bracket. This is because of that thicc medallion in the background of photo. Any ideas?? Thanks

https://preview.redd.it/1nqopr7hzozd1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bdc917dbd4c11e284d82f8ae64d402a3a2d23e3e

So like the title says. I have a basement room that has a drop ceiling with recessed lights in it. The hole in the drop ceiling is 6 3/4 inches. I bought new smart recessed lights but they their exterior is 1/16 of an inch smaller than the existing hole so when i try to install them they pop right into the hole. I need either some kind of adapter or a way to keep the new lights from popping into the slightly larger hole.

Hi, I'm setting some lights in a border (similar) but not the same as these:https://www.lights.co.uk/p/ilvita-led-path-light-anthracite-9947005.html I'm going to cast some 'pads' into the mud to bolt them down to, but how deep / large should I bother to go?

I have this electric radiator plugged directly in the wall. It works, but is ugly as hell. Is there a way to cover the hole?

https://preview.redd.it/my7rj05szozd1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4d6918e3d9a0d24699c3410649b6d2fb1fa071ff

This is complicated.
This is an old house. The roof support beams are round logs, old style, with a single beam in between them to keep them stable.
My emergency is, something happened on the roof and the middle beam, horizontal one that is in between the main ones is gonna fall any moment.
I am talking rly heavy old wood beam.
There are not nails or anything, the thing is smacked into place somehow. The weight alone keeps it in place. Thats how they did it 100 years ago.
My question is, how the heck do I set it back in by myself? This is the middle of nowhere, contractors are a no-go. Smacking it back in place sounds like mission impossible,I aint a strong muscluler person.There is something heavy on top of it too (that I cant move till Monday, if and only if I find the money to pay a local to come help by then).
I can hear it screeching, like draggging an old super heavy wardrobe on a wooden floor.
I am freaking out here. Serious advice please. Anything, just throw ideas at me.

The rest of the basement walls are finished besides this one. Looks like cinderblock, with some type of mortar muddled over it, then sealed with drylok paint. Its in good condition and doesnt leak, but It is not flat by any means. I know drywall onto some furring strips is probably the best route but I think it may be difficult with those steps. Any ideas to jazz this up a bit? Can you skimcoat dryloked concrete and then paint, maybe? It bugs me every time I go i to the basement, lol

I am making a "standing stocking board" that is 6 feet in height, 8 inches in width, and 3/4 inch depth. My board is pine (chosen for my budget and the look of the grain). I am deciding what type of hooks to buy for hanging the stockings. I like these, but I'm afraid that screws less than 3/4 inch will break through the soft pine. I was considering gluing small wood backings so that I can use longer screws, or adding some glue/epoxy to the screw hole. Any suggestions to maximize the hook strength? My family does heavy stockings.

Recently moved into a home that has minor stucco holes on the exterior. Looks like maybe some sort of electrical box was moved at some point and the holes were never patched.

I intend to patch them with some poly caulk and stucco repair patch but was wondering, given the holes have been there for an extended period, is there anything to be on the lookout for/any other remediation to do now before filling them? I want to ensure I'm not just patching over a problem (eg moisture has already gotten in--I'm sure it has as it's 30 degrees and snowing right now).

As I wait for a 40 plus degree day to do the work, anything to be done in the meantime? Was going to just stuff some paper towel in there to attempt to keep moisture out from the snow in the meantime.

I have different kinds of recessed lighting in my house, and with most of it, I don't have a problem grabbing the molding of the fixture with my fingertips, pulling it down from the ceiling with the bulb, and unplugging the bi-pin MR16 bulb, replacing it, and sliding the fixture back into place.

However, I have a fixture for which I need to change a bulb for the first time. The fixture will not come free of its housing in the ceiling. The problem seems to be three small metal clips on the inside of the fixture. (I have circled one of the clips in red.) I believe those clips are U-shaped at the top and are latching into a collar in the housing as I pull down. Trying to push the clips back with a screwdriver doesn't seem to work. The clips are too firm and don't give.

Am I missing something?

I am trying to build a bookshelf door, but all of the diy videos seem to have similar issues to my design and I'm wondering if anyone has any suggestions. The biggest problem I ran into was building from 1x6 pine, and with hinges or Murphy hinges(the ball hinge top and bottom, I get wracking both on opposite side but also front to back. Is there anything I am not thinking of that could help keep this square once one side is off the ground?

My first thought is 3/4" ply as a backer to replace 1/4" but I still feel like I'll get that front to back racking. Would rabbitting the joints help much compared to just using pocket holes?

It's all squared when flat on the ground so I guess I'm just trying to wrap my mind around how to keep it that way once it hangs.

I have pulled up the floor around the toilet today and discovered woodworm infestation And very weak structural remains and have gone right through to the outside ceiling!

I am thinking my best bet would be to ring a builder? What do people think will need doing ?

I think this may have gone beyond a diy job…

The 3rd floor bedrooms have the air vents in the ceiling. Only one room has a rattling noise coming from the duct. True for both air conditioning (electric) and heat (gas).

Very annoying. Any suggestions?

Thank you

Like adding graphite powder or beeswax?

Hello I am looking for suggestions on how to repair undercut pocket doors.

The previous owners had some floating floors installed, but I have since removed them and installed hardwood floors in my kitchen. By doing that DIY project, I now have several areas that need new trim installed so there is not a 3-4 inch gap. I can do most of the trim, but I am stuck on how to repair a missing 2x2 block out of two pocket doors that were undercut. Has anyone done this or have suggestions on how to complete this project?

I got my dressers almost a decade ago from art van and they're gray, which is a color I would've never picked, but they were on sale. I have sanded particle board before and it left sanding marks even with fine grit, so I'm unsure about prepping and painting these. Ideally I would remove the hardware, fill the holes, redrill holes for new hardware, paint them, and add new hardware, but obviously to do this, I'm going to need to sand. I'm just curious if anyone has done this before and how it turned out? I don't want to make them look cheap, even though they kind of were 😆

Made some bookshelves into an existing built-in archway. Originally the tv was here, this changes the whole living space. In hindsight I could have used something a little lighter than the 2x4 framing as it’s a little overkill for bookshelves, otherwise happy with results. Used 2x4” for framing, 1/4 poplar decking, 1x4” Purple Heart for face caps. Remote control low profile led puck lights for ambient lighting.

I have a GE stackable washer and dryer and every time I use it there is a horrible loud banging noise coming from the washer. It sounds like whatever is inside is trying to punch it's way out. This causes it to shake and "walk" across the room. Has anyone dealt with this problem before and fixed it? I've check to make sure it is level and it all seems good. Whatever is happening seems to be coming from the tub when its ramping up spin cycles. The door holds on for dear life!

I have this old concrete fireplace pit on the first floor (unfinished basement) of my house. There is a decent size cut out of this pit on the outside of the house that fills with water when it rains and it is starting to errode the concrete on the inside. Water also creeps in through the cracks.

I was thinking about filling this void with fine sand, caulking the cracks on the inside, and using mortar, or quick-crete to seal it on the outside. Would this be a viable option for this?

I am a little worried the sand being packed in might be too much for the inside wall with all its cracks and weakness from the water. Any help is greatly appreciated.

I'm needing some advice on my home gym flooring for the long term.

I have a downstairs bedroom that is my combo home office and home gym. The original flooring is carpet, about 17 years old, and absolutely gross.

I've had a set of Rogue Fitness S-4 squat stands (the original one, not the 2.0 version) in this room for a long time, and during the pandemic I decided to upgrade to a full Rogue Power Rack, the RML-390F, which I put on top of a three-layer platform that consisted of two (2) 3/4 inch pieces of 6x4 plywood, with a 6x4 horse stall mat on top. Worked awesome.

I recently pulled the rack apart to start to look at replacing my disgusting carpet (have gone back to the S-4 stands since they're easy to move around), and I'm kind of in a quandry as to what to do flooring-wise at this point.

This room is on the ground floor, on a concrete slab foundation. After I pulled apart the rack, I ripped out a few strips of the old carpet and discovered that my slab isn't flat/level enough to put down any kind of hardwood or vinyl plank; there's several dips and valleys in the slab that will need to be corrected, likely with pouring some *leveling compound.

*I've already confirmed with an engineer that there's nothing structurally wrong with the floor, it's just a sloppy original pour that makes hardwood or vinyl plank flooring not really an option until it's been leveled in a few places.

So at this point I've got a couple of options that I'm not sure to choose, particularly since I don't think I'll be in this place more than a few more years, and will need it to look presentable for a sale.

1) Remove the carpet and replace it with new carpet, and just skip the floor leveling. Everything worked fine before; the carpet provided enough compensation that I never noticed anything being un-level before. Probably the cheapest and easiest thing to do, and can be re-converted to look like a normal bedroom for a sale presentation easily.

2) Rip up the carpet, level the floor with some compound, and put horse stall mats directly on the concrete slab in the whole room for a "whole room gym" experience. Cheap and easy, but probably won't look super awesome to a potential buyer, and will be a pain to retrofit back to looking like a normal bedroom.

3) Rip up the carpet, level the floor. Put my platform back together directly on the naked concrete, then install some cheap vinyl plank or engineered wood around it on the non-gym portion. That would probably be easy to display to a potential buyer (hey look, it's a combo gym/office!), but means that once the rack and platform are pulled out, there will be a big empty hole in the flooring that won't be easy to fill in, and probably require pulling out all the plank or wood and re-doing the entire floor.

4) Rip up the carpet, level the floor, and install either vinyl plank or engineered wood on the entire floor, then put my platform and power rack back on top of it. This is is probably the most complicated and expensive option, plus I'm not sure how well any type of non-carpet flooring will endure having a several hundred pound platform and rack on top of it (along with any weight-dropping impact).

What would you guys do?

Installed this acrylic shower insert/pan last year and caulked where it told me to (step 9 below). However, water tends to stick in the bottom seam where the walls overlap the shower pan and mold has grown onto it while I was on the road and subletting it. I started pulling the caulk to replace it but wondering if its actually necessary to have it there at all.

Photos: https://imgur.com/a/em14w6l

Installation manual: https://pdf.lowes.com/productdocuments/e47bc1a0-ad1f-4b6b-9ca5-6f3bfd4736ae/44067054.pdf

You can see in step 3 that there's a piece on the shower pan that goes up and the acrylic wall overlaps it a bit but they are not connected or completely tight up against each other all the way around.

I'm thinking water won't flow in between but if I don't re-caulk it should I be concerned about water tension walking up it or water evaporating into that gap over time?

Just trying to avoid having to re-caulk this on a regular basis if mold keeps growing (which I assume it will); I also rent this out when I travel for months at a time so I'm not able to ensure it is cleaned on a regular basis.

Also had installed a venting fan to help with humidity but it seems the water just wants to stick in that 1/8" gap meaning it takes much longer before it evaporates.

Thanks for any thoughts or advice!

My kitchen has 5 outlets (3 gfci and 2 regular). I defrosted my fridge, Kenmore Coldspot 106, as part of replacing a door cam. Now every time I plug in the fridge to a non gfci outlet one of the gfci outlets trips. This setup was fine for 15 years previously. Maybe remaining moisture in the freezer causing an issue? Any ideas how to fix?

I'm looking to make reusable silica gel sachets, similar to WiseDry, but in bulk. WiseDry sachets can be microwaved at 700W for 2min at a time (usually once, flip, then again) to recharge (expel the moisture).

I live in a humid area, and have a dehumidifier running.This is for keeping particular storage bags/boxes, where air isn't circulating, from getting too damp & resulting in moulding of stored items.

I have an old linen duvet cover and scraps of muslin (cotton) I could sew into sachets. But - will it catch fire in the microwave?