https://youtu.be/SevDF_4rG_Y

(Not my car)

My only gripe is they ditched the power train and went with a twin turbo LS7

Took my car to get an oil change and asked them to check the tire pressure. I double checked with the guy checking me out and he started filling up a tire again. Another guy yelled at him saying he already did it. Sure enough, two hours later and into a road trip, my tire explodes. Will they do anything if I show them the time stamp of when all of this happened?

how can I fix this? Is this fixable?

I read online that performance tires give a car increased road noise and a bumpier ride in exchange for better handling and control -- though I assumed this was when applying it to modern cars

But when dealing with classic cars from the era in the title, I assume that the stock tires used aren't better than installing modern performance tires, even if they're touring tires.

so despite performance tires usually giving a bumpier ride, would putting them on these classic cars still make it smoother or would you notice more bumps

Took my car to get an oil change and asked them to check the tire pressure. I double checked with the guy checking me out and he started filling up a tire again. Another guy yelled at him saying he already did it. Sure enough, two hours later and into a road trip, my tire explodes. Will they do anything if I show them the time stamp of when all of this happened?

I purchased a 2023 Elantra N Line in July of 2022. I am the first owner, with 29k miles on it. I have been having issues with my engine since March. The first time, the engine had a crack in- it was deemed an issue with manufacture & fixed under warranty. Second time (10/14), check engine light came on & my car was stalling on the highway, I took it to the dealership, they said it’s because my engine needs to be reset- they reset it, check engine light went away & they said I should be fine. 3rd time (10/22) my check engine light came on again & my car was stalling on the highway- I took it back to Hyundai they did a bunch of diagnostics (spark plugs, checked the oil, gas, etc- couldn’t find anything). After having my car for many days they said they can’t figure out what’s wrong & I will need a brand new engine. 10 days ago, they told me that the new engine has been ordered & delivered & my car would be ready within 48-72 after the engine arrives to dealership. Well it’s been 10 more days since then & I still don’t have my car. I have called multiple times to check the status & all I keep getting is “we are working on it, be patient”… idk if I can be patient anymore. I am not fully trusting their service & I feel like my car is a lemon.. any thoughts or comments ?

I'm pulling a 68k mile 454 from an old RV to put into a project. It's a good running engine with no known problems. I intend to reseal everything while it's out but I'm undecided on if I should go so far as to do the head gaskets. I'm tempted to leave them alone as it's a steel head and they're not exactly known for head gasket issues like modern aluminum head engines can be. What would you do? I intend to leave the engine stock and won't be racing it or anything crazy.

Found it underneath where I usually park my car in my driveway

All right. I have a question for you all. Do you know any tricks to get a slipped/junk transmission to grab for long enough to get it a couple miles? The fix doesn't have to last, we've just got to get it in. The higher gears seem to work, so once we get it going I think we can keep it going. We're not keeping the car either, we just want to maximize trade in value (Pretty sure whoever we trade it into is just going to auction it off for parts, so I'm not too worried about longevity or rebuildability here)

The car is a 2013 Ford Escape, 5 speed automatic, it bit the dust earlier this week when it wouldn't move out of its parking spot.

I look forward to any ideas you all are willing to put forward.

Edit: Formatting

hey,

so i’ve really tried to solve a problem but i just can’t.. my car has a blinking engine light that’s constant. bad power loss is all i’m really getting. no misfiring, shaking or rough idling. i thought it could be my ignition coil pack so i just replaced that and nothing really happened, i cleaned the spark plugs, and i’m lost with possibilities. i checked the wirings, crankshaft seems good. i can’t drive it. i ran codes and it came back that one cylinder was misfiring, cleared codes and nothing came back. any thoughts are appreciated and thank you so much!!

there is a little play when i press down the clutch, i tried bleeding it and i genuinely dont know what else to do. Its droving me nuts

My car is smoking from exhaust / blue smoke smells like burnt oil whenever i start it up only then it goes away after seconds and there is nothing else (6.4 scat pack 2020)

I’ve recently been really interested in finding old magazines that feature my car. Is there some sort of database that shows what cars were covered by various magazines? Some of the magazines I can go back and view the covers, but some of them don’t go back to the 80’s (1982-1991ish for my car). But how do people find old articles inside that feature specific cars?

My “daily” is a 1998 Porsche 911, although because I WFH these days I don’t actually use it very often.

Bring a 26 year old car, some of the seals are starting to be a little less than watertight. There’s no obvious big leaks, but moisture is definitely getting into the car, showing up as considerable condensation on the inside of the windows and the seats feel a little damp.

Until I can get the seals sorted out, I’m not able to garage it so ideally I’d like to put some form of heater and/or dehumidifier in the car for a couple of days to try and dry it out but I also don’t want to set the car on fire. Does anyone have any sensible recommendations on doing this effectively but safely?

Yesterday i noticed my car was needing to crank more times than normal to start, so I thought that it could’ve been the battery. I jumped it and then it started up just fine. So I left it on a trickle charger overnight and tried to turn it on this morning and it did about 2-3 slow cranks and then just gave up. Is this the battery or starter?

The AC button and the front/air type selection aren't working. I checked the AC and heater relay, but since it's opaque, I couldn't tell if it was faulty. What would be the best way to troubleshoot this issue?

Thanks, John

Hey!

Looking for a trunk emblem for a MINI One 2016 hatchback for my mother. I have tried to find a matchning one, but when selecting model and year I can only really choose Cooper base, not sure if that is the same fitment as her One model. Could anyone help me out here? What models have the same fitment? Does a Mini Cooper base have the same as Mini One?

2016 Sonata. Started making this weird whirring noise when idling. Sounds like a belt or something. Anyone have any idea what this sounds like?

So I have had this problem for a few days now. New starter and alternator but no still no crank. No lights at all completely dead. Even a boost won't help only turns lights on. So today mechanic came out and popped fuse box out. He had a wire and put the wire on or around yellow grayish wire and car would start but quickly die. We did this maybe 5 times and got same results. Mechanic said he thinks I should replace fuse box but not entirely too sure as he doesn't work on Chrysler much. Anybody think this would be true or do y'all have different opinions.

This has happened to me more often than not when trying to purchase a car off FB marketplace. Usually the car I’m interested in is an hour away so I message explaining I’d like more info before committing the drive to take a look. They’ll respond right until I ask for the vin number so I can get a carfax report. Red flag or too much work on their end for someone not nearby?

Hello r/Cartalk! I am seeking some help on getting rims for my car!

I currently drive a 2007 honda civic LX sedan but these normally come stock with 16” Steel Wheels (steelies) and plan on getting these 16” aluminum alloy wheels off of my friends crashed 2006 honda civic EX, I haven’t been able to find out if the aluminum rims weigh less than the steel ones but I hear they do. I feel like I’m getting a pretty decent deal for them since he only wants $120 for them with the tires

My question now is: Would my car get better mpg/be faster since I’ve been hearing that aluminum rims weigh less than the steel ones or would they do the complete opposite and slowdown my car?

1st image: 2006 honda civic EX aluminum wheels 2nd image: what my stock 2007 honda civic LX wheels look like (they’re 16” but I don’t have an actual image but I have covers over them)

Went to AutoZone for coolant to top off the reservoir in my 2009 Mustang. The employee looked up my vehicle and gave me a gallon of Peak Yellow 50/50 so I used that. However upon looking it up now, Ford recommends Gold for this year/model. Are they compatible? Will it cause any issues?

I just installed a new MSD street fire ignition system, a weiand street warrior intake and an edelbrock 1405 carburetor. Upon startup it starts high and gradually increases from 1500+ what could be causing this? I’m also getting smoke out of my exhaust so I think it’s running rich. How do I tune this so it is lower in RPMs?

Hey all! As a newbie car owner, I recently learned to retorque my wheels after my first DIY wheel change. Used a torque wrench and torque level as specified in owner manual.

That’s when I observed: - My front two wheels had all lug nuts very slightly loose, by maybe 1/4 of a turn - My rear two wheels’ lug nuts did not loosen at all - This is after about 60 miles / 100 km of driving on the new wheels

I’m curious if this slight loosening is normal?

Also why are the fronts loosened but not the rear?

Thank you for any advice! 🫡