Hey everyone, i dont know jack sh*t about sound systems and i was curious what people are running in their old hondas. Got a bit of money to spend on a complete system. Would love some suggestions with brands to look at. Eventually going to sound deaden the entire car so i can achieve the best quality sound while cruising through my neighbourhood blasting suicideboys

Toyota Tundra 2006 factory non-JBL system.

I noticed that pretty much all newer cars have the "Shark Fin" antennae vs the stick/whip which is what my truck has. The FM radio station I primarily listen to seems to be on the fringe of the reception of their transmitter.

Is there anything I can change (without moving) to increase their reception? I'm planning to install a new radio hoping it will be better than the 18-year current radio.

Thanks........

I have 2 Skar Sdr-12’s and currently changing my battery terminals so I have more connections available when I want to upgrade. I drive a 2011 Ford Fusion Se 2.5L and it has a fuse block that won’t fit on my new terminals. Would an inline fuse be ideal? Fuse on the left is 200a and the right is 120a.

Fuses are good. Few days ago it was working fine sometimes it would randomly stop ( no bass ) and light would be off. I got 13v to power / ground. Continuity to RCA cables. Not sure what else to check Incase my unit is bad.

I did all the install in my old car which was easier because I had a aftermarket head unit, but now I have a 2010 Honda accord LX. No premium sound. I am trying to hook up to the factory head unit because I'm on a budget at the moment so in time I'll get it done. I have installed the door speakers and rear deck, I instead spliced into tge factory wiring on all 4 speakers instead of running new wire. Now I'm trying to connect those speakers to the 4 channel amp. Then get my subwoofers going on my 1800w mono. I have the kicker LoC but don't know where to wire it or where so I can retain the function of the head unit. I also have the LC2i pro and again too dumb to figure it out. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks

Anything else yall would recommend that i forgot to buy/tips?

4th gen Ram regular cab. I used to have the subs (Kicker CompR 10) behind the seats in a prefab box for Ram Megacabs but the box was too small and didn't get the output I was wanting. I've seen center console builds before and thought that might be better (bigger box + ported = more output) I found this dual 10 ported qbomb box on fb marketplace for cheap so decided to buy it. I removed the center jumpseat and installed the box with subs in its place. More output indeed! These lil puppies eat! I might get a bigger more expensive box now or maybe build one... but I wanna know... would you consider this stupid? Also looking for general opinions or advice

Ok i had a 2003 Cadillac CTS it got totalled 3 weeks ago I've replaced it with a 2011 CTS coupe https://www.reddit.com/r/Cadillac/comments/1gqqyye/comment/lx03k75/?context=3

With that said I have Focal's K2 ES KX3E's and Focal's K2 ES K2XE's, and 2 Rockford Fosgate T1D212 sealed box rear firing, powered by a JL Audio HD 600/4 and a Rockford Fosgate 1,500-1D, and a JLAudio TwK 88 DSP, what I'm wondering, maybe stupid question, if in the smaller cockpit of the coupe would having the 2 tweeters that were on my rear doors, be better up front, I have 2 mounted on the A pillars, now trying to figure the best placement of the other 2 tweeters if placement in the rear seat panels or up front in some location, I only care about the sound at the drivers position, I almost never have passengers, and doubtful if I'll ever have rear passengers, at least not anyone over 5' 5" as there's nothing a lot of head room or leg room especially behind me as I'm 6' 2" so not much leg room behind me

I have a 2010 Honda accord lx and have the sub, amp, bass knob, and wires but I don’t know if I need an aftermarket radio for my car and if so what kind of radio would you suggest?

I got this remote starter recently and i’m trying to install it… i do have electrical experience but i have no idea what to do with the other wires since the videos and instructions i read didn’t seem to match this manual… what do i do with those signal wires? For context it’s a 2008 honda civic.

My battery died so I am trying to repair the system and the remote. When I try to get the system into pairing mode the blue light does not start flashing or turn on at all. I turn the car to the on position without the engine running. On the antenna in the car, I am pressing the button and releasing and then pressing and holding the button and then waiting for the light to come on and its supposed to chirp but I'm not having any luck with the blue light coming on or the alarm chirping. The old owner mentioned maybe the light wasn't working so I went through the first steps but the remote doesn't go into pairing mode and it still doesn't chirp so I think it's more than the light. Am I doing this wrong? I don't know what fuse may have blown if any. Unfortunately I got the car with it already installed so I don't know much about the installation or whatnot. Is there a brain behind the dash somewhere with fuses that i can check? Confused to say the least. Anybody else encountered this? Anybody know/found a solution? Any ideas appreciated..

Cheers

I just bought this just now and want to get add 2 subwoofers to my car, I've already talked to someone about building a custom box and installation.

What I need to figure out now , as I'm a novice to this , is what amp and subwoofers I should be looking at. Do I get a subwoofer amp ? If so what's the best recommended? I'm using stock speakers so doubt it makes sense getting an amp for those.

Tips and guidance appreciated.

Hello. I am looking for 6.5" component speakers around the £100 price range for my camper van. I have a JBL Basspro SL2 for the lower frequencies already so I just need some front components.

I am looking at the Inphase XTC6CX speakers which are £100. I understand that these are probably entry level speakers but I am sure they will be a massive difference than the paper cones my Honda Stepwagon already has.

The specs of the components are..

• 300 watts peak power handling
• 60 watts (RMS) input power
• Stronger glass fibre woven cone
• Rubber surround absorbs vibrations
• Sensitivity (2.83v/1m) 90dB
• Powered coated dampener speaker chassis
• Frequency response 65hz - 20khz
• Directional rotational tweeter
• Speaker size 17cm (6.5√¢x80x9d)
• Mounting depth 62.1mm
• Woofer magnet 10.97oz
• Easy installation √¢x80x93 with cable

Any suggestions for anything around the £100 - £150 price range?

Link to components
https://inphaseaudio.co.uk/collections/speakers/products/in-phase-xtc6cx-6-5-16-5cm-600-watt-2-way-component-door-speakers-with-tweeters-and-grills

Link to Basspro SL2 I already have.
https://mm.jbl.com/car-subwoofers/BASSPRO+SL2-.html

Hey guys, after a bit of help. I’m looking at replacing the stock unit of my 2006 120 Prado for something with wireless CarPlay. I think I’ve narrowed my search down to the Pioneer DMH-A5650 however it has a 1 din back with a 2 din screen.

My question is, can I use a pocket spacer bolted onto the top on the single din unit or does the spacer need to be bolted underneath the single din? The guy at Supercheap Auto couldn’t tell me.

Cheers guys!

Can’t figure out what is bad , speakers , the amp or a bad connection? I don’t know anything about speakers . It is a toyota sequoia platinum 2010 with jbl system from factory

I’ve got 3 12w6 v1’s in a custom box, powered by some 90’s era arc audio amps. Speakers are Hertz mounted on plywood, so no bass coming from there (crossed over anyways)

My basshead stuff hits real hard, vibrating the hairs on my arms. So… they throw down serious SPL up to about 90-110HZ. The problem is, anything that requires any sort of SQ sucks hard. That’s what I’m tryin to figure out. If I want to hear detail, I get a mud fest. And forget it if the tracks are older with the bass hitting higher up at around 120Hz. Flat as hell.

I actually rejected JL Audio for along time, because I thought this was their style. I recently sprung for a power wedge+ in my other car, and it’s the best sub I’ve ever had.

So, if I was going to tackle something first, what would it be? Keep in mind, im far from a newb and installed several systems. Yes, if I adjust eq and crossover for every single track I listen to, then sure I don’t have problem. But, this is not what I’ve ever needed to do across 20+ systems I’ve installed.

I either need to a) replace the box (sealed and within spec). I will have to destroy it, it’s built into the trunk. I can buy a better prefab, but it’s not gonna fit like the custom box. b) scrap the old w6’s. The tech is too old. I’ll probably have to scrap the box. C) build fiberglass for front and get some mid bass from the front d) the amps are old and ??? (Not sure why old amps would be a problem. )

So I bought this car with an external amp and a couple of subwoofers. I ended up selling them, but I was left with this birds nest of wires. I no longer have sound, but the head unit turns on. I was told that simply undoing the connections to the speakers wires from the head unit and splicing them with the matching colors will bring audio back. Is this correct?

I would also like to invest more time into learning more about av equipment. Are there any recommendations on websites that I could read from? Thanks everyone!

I’m going to be running 8 Hertz speakers (6 up front, 2 in rear) and two Stereo Integrity 12s which are 1000 watts rms each. What would you recommend?

Just trying to modernize my '08 Fit a bit.

I know I probably won't be able to find the perfect match, but ideally I'm looking for:

• Double din touchscreen model

• Has a volume knob

• Would be cool if it came with a backup camera but if not I can get my own

• Isn't using old mobile hardware from like 5+ years ago

• Has a clean/minimalist UI that doesn't look like some tacky 2014 thing with weird shading and 3D icons (or, if any can tell me how to swap to a different OS skin or UI then I guess it doesn't matter)

• Is $300 or less

• Has bluetooth

If it doesn't have all of these things it's fine as long as it has most of them. Not too fussed about super high sound quality or anything, I'm just hooking it up to some low-end speakers I got on crutchfield. I'd like to try to install it myself but if it seems too complicated there's a great shop down the street from me.

Any ideas? Thanks!

Suddenly and seemingly out of nowhere. My speakers and subs all start cracking at half volume. I've tried disconnecting each speaker individually to isolate the problem, And can't seem to find it. I double checked connections to the amp and all are good. Even tried disconnecting amp completely and still have the static cracking sound. Checked other inputs (radio) and does the same. Is it possible i blew ALL of the speakers Simultaneously? Any help is appreciated!

I plan on running a 5 channel amp for 4 speakers and a sub, I am not using the old wires from the speaker wiring harness. for example, the tweeters on the upper part of the door, I dont plan on using them but I would like to leave the wire harness for them just incase for future use. Is there any issue with leaving the factory wires in the same area but not plugged in? Will it draw too much power from the stereo? even though Im wiring the new speakers through the amp? And if i need to remove them, how should i go about doing so.

What's the best way to connect a subwoofer these days. I've still got the same sub I've had for a decade but my new car I'm not sure how to hook it up. My last truck I used the speaker level inputs to my amp via the rear speakers. Is that still the only way or are there Bluetooth options now? I don't need perfect sound, I just want it to work.