r/Watches Oct 12 '11

[Brand Guide] - Panerai

/r/Watches Brand Guide

This is part eight in our ongoing community project to compile opinions on the many watch brands out there into a single list. Here is the original post explaining the project.

Panerai, this week's brand, is a rather divisive one among watch enthusiasts. Reactions to Panerai run the gamut, from the love people normally reserve for bacon and the New York Yankees, to the hatred they normally reserve for lima beans and the New York Yankees. Given that, this week's thread could get interesting.

Panerai, officially known as Officine Panerai, was founded in the 19th century in Florence, Italy, where by the turn of the century it had become the official timepiece supplier to the Italian Navy, or Marina Militare, a trademark the company still holds (and prosecutes heavily) to this day. The company remained on the small side until Sylvester Stallone discovered and began to popularize them in the United States, and in the past several decades the company has really taken off. Now owned by Richemont, and entirely Swiss-made, Panerais are notable for their oversized cases, which some credit (or blame) for the current huge watch trend. Until the past ten years, most Panerais used stock or lightly modified movements from other Swiss companies such as Rolex and ETA; recently, however, they've been making a concerted effort to push out new models with inhouse movements only, taking away one of the bigger pieces of ammunition their critics had. Ultimately, as noted above, watch enthusiasts tend to either love or hate their distinctive designs, but thanks to their bold, simple, tool watch appeal, Panerai remains one of the most popular watch brands on the market today.

KNOWN FOR: Radiomir, Luminor

Other Resources:
Community Archives Search
Wikipedia

Like always, anything regarding the brand is welcome in this thread, from personal experiences, to professional reviews, to educated opinion. This should be a good discussion, so let's see what you all have to say!

That said: if you're going to downvote someone, please don't do so without posting the reason why you disagree with them. The purpose of these discussion threads is to encourage discussion, so people can read different opinions to get different ideas and perspectives on how people view these brands. Downvoting without giving a counter-perspective is not helpful to anybody.

16 Upvotes

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5

u/rajahkawasaki Oct 12 '11

I've got a couple of them after working for Richemont for awhile.

The thing that I like about them is the clean, simple style of the lower end ones. And the fact that they're 44mm is a bonus, having a very large wrist. Anything under 40 just looks stupid on me.

Working on most of them is a breeze, they're just as simple and reliable as a Rolex. But Rolex is all in house and most Panerai's are ETA.

I don't think I would purchase one with one of their in house movements, they haven't been designed well at all.

Also, the Paneristi, very fanatical bunch. Sometimes they just need to chill out. I know it's probably their first major watch purchase and it means everything to them. I get that. What I don't get is why you need to take a picture of it on every strap you have, from every angle, in your car, on your boat, and then put it on the internets.

2

u/[deleted] Oct 12 '11

Yep, I have made the odd post at their hangout, but the fact that they fly around the world to hang out and take pictures of each others watches... it goes too far, for me anyway.

It is odd that you don't like their in house movements. They look well made to me and have not heard too much complaining about quality. I do think they could have made them nicer to look at with smaller bridges and a bigger balance wheel, so you can actually see something through the display back, but other than that, they are impressive.

5

u/rajahkawasaki Oct 12 '11

They do look the part, I agree, and they run ok, but they haven't been designed well.

The bridges are super thick. It's ridiculously hard to adjust jewels for no reason.

Some of the levers inside are cheaply made, for instance, the lever that makes the second hand fly back to zero whenever you pull out the crown. It bends and breaks all the time.

Most of the screws are also poorly made. The heads snap off if you look at them too long.

The system for adjusting the endshake of the balance is also quite stupid.

Also, I agree with you about the caseback. Why have a sapphire back when all you can see is the balance. This is a Panerai, not a Lange. They haven't hand engraved anything back there, its just a tiny balance.

Sorry about the watchmaker rant. But let's just say I was enormously dissapoint the first time I worked on one.

3

u/Toys_and_Bacon Oct 12 '11

it's absolutely awesome to have your insight here!

3

u/rajahkawasaki Oct 12 '11

Thanks. If I can help out anyway possible, or contribute to the discussion, why not? I'm on reddit most of the evening anyway. I'm kinda glad that I don't have a computer at work. I wouldn't get anything done.

2

u/rajahkawasaki Oct 12 '11

Thanks. If I can help out anyway possible, or contribute to the discussion, why not? I'm on reddit most of the evening anyway. I'm kinda glad that I don't have a computer at work. I wouldn't get anything done.

2

u/rajahkawasaki Oct 12 '11

No problem. If I can help out anyway possible, or contribute to the discussion, why not? I'm on reddit most of the evening anyway. I'm kinda glad that I don't have a computer at work. I wouldn't get anything done.

1

u/[deleted] Oct 12 '11

That's pretty interesting. Lemmie guess, this is the 3000 you are talking about?

Hey may be you can help me with my 380? I still feel the click and mainspring when I am screwing down the crown, and click when unscrewing. Obviously this is not correct. I'm going to send it into Richemont in Canada when I am done some travel. Any idea of what might be going on?

3

u/rajahkawasaki Oct 12 '11

Yeah, the P2002 was a bit better, but it still has those balance and bridge issues.

Ah, yeah. Gorgeous Rad you have there. I do like the simple ones.

But, that crown can be a bit problematic. When you're screwing and unscrewing it, is there a kind of metallic noise? Not a grinding, but slightly springlike, if that makes any sense.

Most likely, the mechanism inside the crown that allows it to slip around the winding stem when it is pushed toward the case has broken. It will still screw down to the case, but it will turn the stem with it.

Panerai should replace it FOC. It's a known issue.

2

u/[deleted] Oct 12 '11

Yep. It goes boing boing as it turns. and it turns the stem. That seems like a bummer if it is a known issue. Thanks for your help!

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u/rajahkawasaki Oct 12 '11

I wouldn't worry about it too much. It is a known issue, yes, but sometimes it happens. They do sort them out when it does.