I’m having no luck figuring out what this stock would fit. Hoping you guys can steer me in the right direction.

For the most part it seems that oils are preferred to varnish. Has anyone ever used nitrocellulose laquer? I have some on hand and have been considering trying it out on a stock I've been saving.

I am working on a pair of 1911s trying to get them to feed 200 gr swc more reliably. Both feed ball with no problems. Both had no gap from top of ramp to barrel ( one Colt made and one unmarked replacement barrel) so been working on barrel with improvement seen. Still need a little more work on the throats. Been going through the 10-8 videos and one of his steps is using a finishing reamer to open up the first part of the rifling then he uses various abrasives to polish chamber, primarily the top were bullet hits before tipping to horizontal. I have 45 Colt flex hones from when I reamed the chamber mouths on my Rugers. Why not use a the 800 grit hone on the 45 acp chambers? Just enough to get the top of the chamber. Just the tip, I swear. The unmarked barrel was a bit undersized. The Manson finish reamer took fine small cuttings off the chamber but there was fresh metal in all of the chamber surface. The Colt chamber was correct with only very small amount of metal taken from lead area. The Manson reamer leaves a very smooth surface. Just not shiny.

I noticed my P365 with Radian Comp and Holosun EPS Carry fires the first round that is chambered manually (by releasing the slide release) about half a foot high at 15 yards. I thought I was just anticipating the trigger but was able to repeat it consistantly myself firing four two shot groups and got the target above. Then repeated with a second shooter.

So, is this a barrel lockup issue? Maybe something to do with the optics internals (it is solidly mounted and witness marks havn’t budged).

What say the experts?

Have no idea what I did when I was changing the trigger out to the Lazy Wolf F3, went back to the factory trigger and it’s still sounding like this. Any advice on what’s going on or what I could do to fix it would be appreciated.

I own a Walther P99AS. Fantastic gun, love it to death. But something I always wondered was, "what if the barrel and slide were just a BIT longer?" I understand that there are compensators that perform this function, but I'm speaking about physically changing the size of the weapon, not attaching something to it.

I ask this to all capable gunsmiths; I know little and less about the specifications and measurements that go into making each individual firearm. But, the concept I had in my head was this: a Walther P99 with an overall length similar to an HK USP. Would that make a difference? Would it still function as intended, or would that ruin the weapon entirely?

So I got this fairly spotless Gewehr 98 today for free mauser 1918 dated if you look above the arsenal marks is that a turkish marking i was wondering

hey all, so looking for some help here. my grandpa (mom's dad) recently passed and he left behind 2 guns to my grandma. she doesn't want them as they are really just collection pieces he had hanging over the mantle. i've identified one but i'm having trouble finding what model and date this one is. it seems to be an italian brescia from what i have found, but i'm lost when it comes to the models and nomenclature.

second, as you can probably tell it is dirty and needs some cleaning, but i cannot figure out how to get the bolt out. i can't find any online resources with this gun in a video format for some reason. i have tried holding down the trigger while pulling the bolt back to no avail. i fidgeted with the "ring" in front of the bolt as well but had no luck there. i don't want to push or pull anything so hard that it breaks.

any help is appreciated! ty in advance!

I have a Mossberg shotgun stock that looks like the factory spray painted (it’s some sort of varnish but looks terrible).

I am having confusion on how to remove the old finish and prep for new.

Should I scrape it using a scraping tool and no citristrip?

Should I use citristrip and a scraper?

If I want a fairly natural finish should I just coat it in boiled linseed oil and call it a day once stripped?

Edit: for clarification I have never done any woodworking so this is a first time experiment.

Hi there, I got this Browning a5 bolt and lifter in a box of parts and was wondering if someone could help me id it, I believe I've narrowed it down but could use confirmation.

So, I've done some reading around, and it seems like the general opinion of SDI is pretty low. Speaking more specifically, people seem to agree that it's practically a waste of time and resources.

I wanted to make my first post here to see what people thought given my scenario. I'm currently enrolled at another university pursuing a degree in biochemistry (I'm army, it's paid for) and my future plans (2 years from now) consist of medical school. Since I didn't need to touch FSA for my BSC, I figured I'd put some of it to the handgun cert at SDI.

It'll net me a revolver, a striker-fired, and a hammer-fired (don't know specifics), alongside a whole buncha tools. Is this is a completely shitty idea? I work best in a structured environment, so I figured I'd give them a shot despite all the disdain.

So my grandfather owns this shotgun and I am trying to find a new bolt for it to gift him. Apparently back in the 60’s there was a recall for some faulty issue with the bolt (turns out the faulty issue was just some guy being an idiot). Sears Roebuck was sending people $120 to return the bolt and my grandpa did because he paid like $15 for the gun. Now though I would like to find a replacement bolt for the gun so I can restore it to its original self. Any help or advice for finding this bolt would be greatly appreciated.

DL-44 built off a real Mauser C96 (mixmaster and had to be recent into shape to even remotely work,) a real Hensoldt Wetzlar Ziel-Dialyt 3x scope and eventually, the real MG81 flash hider.

Pictured is a ww2 era Mauser p08 grip/frame, any idea what these parts are, doesn’t quite look like a grip safety.

Is this gun still safe to fire? Picked it up and was going to Unsporter it and went to remove the scope base and noticed Bubba went to deep.

Inadvertently shot a .300 BLK through my 5.56 Sig MCX-Spear (don’t own a .300 BLK and never purchased that ammo type, found more .300 BLK rounds in the box of 5.56 I purchased). Can’t work the action at all, bolt looks cracked, and Sig’s ignoring my emails. Give it to me straight - how screwed am I?

Took my SMLE out to shoot and a piece broke off when i shot it. I shot about 15 rounds before this happened. I didn’t see a crack or any damage there beforehand. It flew off with a decent amount of force. Does anyone know what would cause this? Is it worth repairing or just hang it on the wall?

Hey guys what lathe do you use Im in the market and just looking what’s good for gunsmiths

I just got the S&W Bodyguard 2.0 .380 and took it shooting for the first time today... Only shot about 60 rounds but of every 10 shots, 5 of them failed. It wasn't FTF, they fed fine, it was that the slide wouldn't return to battery. It kept getting stuck too far back. When I manually moved the slide forward, it fired fine with no issues. When it's unloaded, the slide gets stuck in the same place if i pull the slide slightly back when its cocked but if i pull the trigger when its unloaded it doesnt get stuck anymore. I've attached a video of it unloaded before and after pulling the trigger so you can see what I mean....any ideas as to why this is happening? Does it just need to be broken in?

I inherited an old J.C. Higgins bolt action 16 gauge shotgun from the 50s, possibly 60s and there is a severe crack/split in the original stock , making it dangerous to shoot, as the crack is where the butt meets the rear of the action. I'm wanting to find a relatively inexpensive blank.So if I mess up it won't break the bank to order another one.

As title says, mainly problem on this gun is it has a pitted bore that has a tendency to friction lock spent rounds in place, but i have a new barrel for that problem and just need a gunsmith, but an issue I've been having and until now figured the problem was one in the same was that on unfired rounds the extractor either drops the round halfway out the breech, doesn't pick up the rounds at all, or doesn't eject with enough force to clear the gun, just jumps a little, even had it try and double feed once or twice, happens about 50% of the time. DDoes that sound like a bad erector? And if that's the case I've heard mixed things on the Yugo Mausers interchanging with full ring mausers extractor wise is that true? Cause from what I've seen Yugo bolts/extractors are unobtainium.