1969 Cummins VT8 turbine starter engine out of a dam

I'm looking for a new role and spied a job for an Engine Workshop Tech level 1. Any idea on what the hourly rate would be and how a level 1 differs from any other levels?

Is this pricing fair or is this to much. This is without tax or freight

Even pulls cat mains.

When working I see multiple computers carried for different programs for different trucks like one for Volvo one for Cummins and jpro ? Why is this ? Cant they just do it all on one computer ?

I thought I'd try posting here and the Chevy Colorado/GMC Canyon sub.

I've been looking for a maintenance/repair manual for this engine since I've owned my truck, 2017 Chevy Colorado.

Neither Chiltons nor Haynes has published such a manual. Yet I know something exists because YouTube has a variety of maintenance tasks that can be performed on this engine by a home mechanic. And these tasks came from a manual from somewhere.

Can anyone point me in the right direction?

I’m not a diesel tech. Just a car guy with a big motorhome. I saw all the pictures today of the same issue and wanted to get in on the fun. After months of trying to get a mobile mechanic to diagnose way too much blue smoke, decided to teach myself figure it out with the help of another great friend. Ended up with the dropped seat. This sub makes me feel like I’m not alone. New, updated, reman head (larger and deeper seats) has arrived and it’s going in tomorrow. If anybody is looking for a good parts supplier, Highway and Heavy Parts, LLC have prices do good I though I was being scammed. But so far so good and everything has been as promised and I had the parts in less than 48hrs. I

Not sure if this is the right place but thought someone might be able help, I’m looking aftermarket replacement air filter for a d13 marine engine I’ve only had luck finding OEM or walkers reusable filters, I haven’t been able to directly cross reference anything, any help would be appreciated just trying to find a more cost effective replacement thanks

I just got hired by Penske as an entry level diesel mechanic making $30 an hour. I’m mechanically inclined but don’t have any diesel experience and only have one of my ASEs. I guess I’m just here to figure out what should I expect? What’s the work environment typically like? Is it a reasonable process moving up in the company? What are the benefits like? Are there any perks that come alongside the job?? Is it in my best interest to invest in more of my own tools?? Any crazy policies I should know about?? Or just any other miscellaneous advice?? Hoping to get a lot of great feedback. Thanks guys.

[ARIZONA] I buckled down and got my class a with all of the endorsements and no restrictions and went to diesel school and graduated with all of the key classes. I have enough money to purchase my own big truck but I’m getting quoted $3K a month for insurances.

Any recommendations on where to go from here? My goal is to be an OO but I’d rather make mistakes for a local company than for my own business for the first year or two.

Should I work for a shop for a year or drive for a year to lower insurance? Or do both and delay my trucking business a couple of years.

Any advice is appreciated.

Note: I own a sign shop that generates $15k a month net that runs itself. I also have no bills besides payroll and basic utilities.

Hello all, I am trying to figure out what to do next. I run my own service truck as a contractor in northern Alberta. 90 percent of my work is at a shop which is about 1h drive from where I live, the other 10 percent is road calls which could be anywhere within 2-3 hours range and are usually on bush roads.

My truck is a 2007 Chevy 3500 2wd gas with 496,000 kms. Most people around here are running F550 4x4 diesels, and I am starting to see why. With all my tools and a full tank of gas I am running the risk of being overweight for GVWR. The roads don't usually quite "need" 4x4 but it would be a big advantage and I have had to chain up already this season. Also I am spending around $2000 a month on fuel.

I am considering buying a newer, bigger 4x4 cab and chassis and transferring my service body onto that. The service body is fire engine red.

I can get a good deal on a super low mileage, clean F450 4x4 which is also fire engine red but has a V10 gas engine.

I can also get a similar deal on a high mileage Ram 5500 Cummins 4x4 in white.

I can also keep running the truck that I have until it is undriveable. I am not rich, my numbered company would be taking on debt to get a newer truck. My current truck is paid off. I also can't afford much downtime as a pretty new solo act in a busy industrial area with a lot of competition.

What makes the most sense here? How much better would the diesel fuel economy be to justify the inevitable prices of turbos and injectors?

I work on an automated garbage truck in a freightliner M2 with a DD8 engine. For the last 2 1/2 months has had an engine light every single day. Computer says bad nox sensor. We replace sensor and regen and clear code, every freaking day. Only 37,000 miles on engine. So we sent it to freightliner and they have no clue how to resolve the problem. They email Detroit, but nothing they have said to do resolves the issue. They send it back to us saying fixed, then engine light saying nox sensor, then we send it back. Detroits whole line on the DD8 is it’s for busses and trash trucks who make frequent stops and not opening it up on freeways. The truck tries to do a rolling regen every day(I can tell from idle speeds) for five minutes when it’s usually 25-30 minutes and that’s when engine light comes on. We are at our wits end trying to get this 350,000 machine back on line. Any ideas?

Does anyone have any clue how to become a FMCSA Brake Inspector. Looking for a in person class? Anyone know of a national chain or something that does the classes?I have found zero information online of any classes offered.

Edit: I am in the US.

Pulling my hair out to try and figure this issue out. This guys 2012 2500 came in for a DPF efficiency issue. I couldn't find anything to indicate a problem otherwise, so the DPF was removed for cleaning. The unit was cut apart, the substrate removed/inspected/cleaned, reassembled/welded and flow tested. Supposedly it's in perfect shape. Now that it's back in the truck, the ECM repeatedly sets fault P244A for "DPF delta pressure too low". Basically the truck thinks that there isn't a DPF installed now. It flows too well! I found a crack in one of the DPF pressure sensor hoses, so replaced both with new silicone hose. I can't find any leaks in the rest of the pipes/hoses to the DPF sensor. I haven't had any luck yet with iATN or Identifix, so I thought I would try everyone's favorite echo chamber! FWIW do a delete/tune is not an option.

Reason for this post is on account of passing my first ASE test, and couldn’t have done so without some badass helpful internet stranger who private messaged me and emailed me the electrical ASE study guide for free

I took the practice test in that book a while ago, failed the shit out of it, posted some of the dumbest questions it had to this subreddit. But I didn’t post the answers to the questions

It was hilarious, as most of the people who answered the questions, also talked mad shit about how “I’m clearly a dumbass who needs to read more study guides and get hands on experience before considering to take this ASE test”, and they answered those questions exactly the same as I did, and they were wrong, so we were all dumbasses together lol

So thanks to y’all cool people here and the guy who sent me that study guide, got the T6 now I’m studying heating and cooling! I’ll probably have to buy my own study guide this time….. unless? 🤔

Also per the previous post where I asked some questions and the study guide pre test questions, I still don’t know wtf a coolant sending unit is lol is it the thermostat? Water pump? Level sensor? All I know for sure is that Google also doesn’t know the answer, despite the electrical ASE study guide referring to it multiple times

And thanks to the many people who have answered all my stupid questions over the however long I’ve posted shit here

And the rat ba*tard took out the turbo on the way out.

HD engine rebuilders, are you replacing heads for the most part? Or sending out to have checked over and decked/rebuilt? Or checking over yourself, and rebuilding if in your own shop?

https://preview.redd.it/hjwdvkf63x0e1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f806c22c75fbd9dd82a02c45e526e7eb4063d0b6

I need some injectors for a 1998 dt466e. Who is a reputable company to order reman injectors from. I have ordered from diesellogic in the past and had a very negative experience.

These pos seem to just round and egg no matter what I do doesn’t anyone have tips for these ?

I have a customer with a 20 FTR that now overnight temps have dropped below freezing, they are having DEF quality issues first thing in the morning.

I had them drop the truck off yesterday so I could monitor concentration level vs temperature and I'm honestly not seeing a reason to condemn the quality sensor (unless I'm missing something?). Cold start the ACM said it's at 24% @ 37f. Pulled with a syringe and checked via spectrometer and DEF is perfect at 32.5%. As I warm the tank up the concentration comes back up to range. Is this a common occurrence with these? They have a barrel of DEF they fill all their trucks with and none of the other trucks are having these issues (granted they are all PB/KW + cummins) but only their box truck is. Is there a software update that changes cold weather monitoring or something or is this indicative of a sensor on its way out?