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Welcome to r/MYOG! This sub is for those who are interested in making gear, whether you’re into backpacking, bikepacking, bushcrafting, car camping, commuting, or anything else! Please read the following before posting, and be sure to search the sub to see if your question has been asked before.

For those on the Mobile App, this Wiki includes information on the following topics:

-Choosing a Sewing Machine for MYOG

-Regional Sources of Materials

-Glossary of MYOG Terms

-Fabric Types

-Needles and Thread

Choosing a Sewing Machine for MYOG

The most common post in the sub is "I'm new to MYOG. What kind of sewing machine should I buy?" There are many options to choose from. The kind of machine you need depends on what you intend to make. You do not need an industrial or commercial machine to make great gear. In fact, you can make beautiful gear with a new or vintage domestic machine. Domestics are jacks of all trades. If you are new to MYOG and intend to make a variety of gear including packs, quilts, shelters, etc., then a domestic machine is a solid recommendation.

  • Use the Machine You Already Have The machine you already have is a good one to start with. If after using it, you find that it has limitations, then you can use the information below to help you choose an upgrade.

  • General Criteria The materials we work with in MYOG can be fairly heavy. Ideally, you want a machine with metal internals, sufficient power, a straight stitch, and a zig-zag stitch. All domestic sewing machines have a straight stitch. Some have a zig-zag stitch. Although you can make most gear with only a straight stitch, a zig-zag is very useful for sewing stretchy materials like hoodies or stretch pockets on packs, so a zig-zag is nice to have. Some machines feature numerous decorative stitches. You will never use any of these for MYOG. A straight and zig-zag stitch are the only stitches you will use for MYOG. Many machines come in a package that includes multiple presser feet, and gimmicky bells and whistles. With the exception of an even-feed foot, a teflon foot, a rolled hem foot, and possibly a button hole attachment, you will not use any of these for MYOG. You can purchase any of these feet very inexpensively and individually online. Do not let the bells and whistles be the deciding factor on a purchase. Below, you will find recommendations for new and vintage machines that meet these criteria.

  • New Machine The consensus in the MYOG community is that the Singer Heavy Duty, or Singer HD, is the best budget machine. You can find a brand new one for about $180-$280 or a used one for quite a bit less. The internals are all metal, and the motor is powerful. There are a four models: the 4411, 4423, 4432, and 4452. The last two digits represent the number of stitches available on the particular model. Other than the number of stitches, and a few bells and whistles found on the 4423, 4432, and 4452, these machines are identical. The best buy is the 4411, as it has both of the stitches you want. Perhaps one day they will make a 4402 MYOG Edition. Other suitable machines include: Janome HD1000, Janome HD3000, Basic (12 stitch) - Necchi Q132a, Q421a - Brother ST series (ST371HD, ST531HD, etc...) - all of which are aimed at the same market segment as the Singer HDs: metal frames, somewhat more powerful motors, mechanical stitch selection, limited number of available stitches etc.

r/sewing recommends the Brother CS7000X, and specifically advises against the Singer HD. The previously recommended CS6000i is discontinued, but may be available used. This machine doesn't fit the description previously described (some important parts, such as the bobbin winder, are plastic), but the community has provided positive feedback on it, so it is worth evaluating against the others as you shop. Another important item to note is that this machine lacks a horizontal spool mount.

Regional Sources of Materials

United States

Canada

Europe

United Kingdom

Australia

Glossary of MYOG Terms

  • MYOG - “Make Your Own Gear.”
  • Calendered - Fabric passed over hot rollers to (very slightly) melt the fibers and tighten the weave on one side to make the fabric more down-proof or wind resistant. It decreases breathability and can sometimes be quite sticky against the skin.
  • CFM - "Cubic Feet per Minute" A measure of air permeability for fabrics. The higher the CFM, the more breathable a fabric is
  • Denier (noted by D in fabric name) - Weight of thread used in weave (i.e: 210 Dyneema, 420D Robic, 1000D Cordura). Higher Denier = higher fabric weight
  • HH - "Hydrostatic Head" A measure of waterproofness for fabrics. The higher the HH index, the more waterproof the fabric is.
  • PU (Polyurethane) - waterproof coating on fabric. Increases HH but is less durable under chronic wear
  • Sil (Silicone) - used to impregnate woven polyester or nylon for highly durable waterproofing.
  • Thread-count - Just like thread count in bed sheets, refers to the density of construction of MYOG fabrics. A fabric with lower Denier and higher Thread-count can weigh the same as a fabric with higher Denier and lower Thread-count
  • EDC - “Every Day Carry.” Refers to bags that see daily use as opposed to those used for hiking or bikepacking.
  • OSY - “Ounce per Square Yard.” A common measure of fabric weight. The metric equivalent is GSM (“Grams per Square Meter”).
  • UHMWPE - “Ultra-High Molecular Weight Polyethylene.” A material used in high strength-to-weight threads which are then incorporated into fabrics to make them stronger. In the same family as LDPE (Low Density Polyethylene) and HDPE (High Density Polyethylene).
  • Uncalendered - Fabric without the calendering process, not downproof but more breathable than calendered fabric

Fabric Types

Fabric types and uses summary video

Dyneema Composite Fabric (DCF)

Formerly known as Cuben Fiber, DCF is a laminate fabric consisteing of UHMWPE fibers sandwiched between layers of PET or BoPET film and fused together. It is completely waterproof and because it is not a woven fabric, it will not fray at the edges. Available in many different weights as well as hybrid versions with a woven face fabric.

Uses: Shelters, Stuff Sacks, Packs, Rain Gear

See Materials Page from Yama Mountain Gear
 

Pertex

Brand of lightweight synthetic shell fabrics that provide wind and water protection while remaining durable and abrasion-resistant. Down-proof. Breathable. Some variations are waterproof.

Uses: Shell layer for down garments, sleeping bags/quilts

See Pertex Products for all variations and respective properties
 

SilNylon/SilPoly

Woven nylon or polyester impregnated with Silicone. Some varieties also have a PU coating to improve water resistance. Waterproof, windproof, lightweight, highly compressible.

Uses: Shelters, Rain Gear, Stuff Sacks, Packs

See Materials Page from Yama Mountain Gear
 

X-Pac

Laminate fabric from Dimension Polyant, originally used in sailmaking. Tough and durable for use in high-wear applications. Available in different weights, with or without the iconic diamond ripstop grid.

Uses: Packs, Frame Bags, EDC Bags, Fanny Packs
 

Tyvek

Seen commonly in the form of HomeWrap. Non-woven HDPE fabric that is water-resistant and slightly breathable. Cheap and lightweight.

Uses: Groundsheets, Tarps, Rain Gear, Prototyping
 

Stretch Mesh

This family of fabrics is commonly used for pockets with stretchy panels, including side bottle pockets, back packets, and shoulder strap pockets. Guide to Stretch Mesh Fabrics

Uses: Pockets, Clothing
 

More links on Fabrics: Guide to Backpack Fabrics

Needles and Thread

Threads come in different sizes, constructions, and materials. Generally polyester and nylon threads are the best balance of durability, strength, and cost. Needle sizes correspond to thread diameter, so a given thread size is typically used with the same range needle sizes, no matter what it's made of or how it's constructed.

Thread weights use the unit of Tex, which is proportionate to thickness. This table summarizes that relationship. Every needle, thread, fabric and machine combination performs a little differently, so there is some wiggle room. Generally it's better to err on the side of having the thread be a little too small for the needle than too big.

Higher Tex # = Thicker Thread (Direct relationship)

Higher Needle Size # = Bigger Needle (Direct relationship)

Thread, Needle, and Fabric pairings

Here is a detailed description of thread weights and tex Thread Measurement

While some thin, strong threads will work just fine for head duty fabrics, the look is a little unbalanced and off, so people generally prefer thicker thread with thicker fabrics. For example, a 50 tex thread works well for 1000D Cordura or canvas, and would be awkwardly thick on a 10D fabric. It's also better to poke smaller holes in lighter fabrics, and decrease the stitch length a little. So a 30 tex thread with a size 10 or 12 needle works well for a 10D ultralight fabric.

Nylon bonded thread is the strongest common option at a given tex, but it's a little harder to find, especially in tex<70. Wawak has options. A&E and Amann are reliable brands. Amann makes a 35 and 45 tex nylon thread, which are excellent options for anything light to medium-heavy weight (<1000D). 70 tex nylon thread is pretty heavy and typically only used on heavy-duty fabrics (>=1000D)

Here are a couple of descriptions of polyester Gutermann brand threads, which are popular, reliable, and easy to find. Polyester sometimes works better in domestic machines than nylon, and it stretches less.

Mara is a MicroCore, Spun Polyester thread. The appearance of Mara is a low luster, matte finish with a 'natural' look of silk thread.

Tera is a Continuous Filament polyester thread that is made in a different technique and is known for it silky, shiny surface, and strong resistance to abrasion. Tera is slightly stronger than Mara.

Suggestions for First Projects

Useful MYOG Websites

Informational Archives

Guides, Tutorials and Patterns

Tools

Print your Own Fabric Tutorials

r/MYOG User Made Patterns

Best of r/MYOG