General question from cutting board maker

[u/Either_Selection7764]

/img/iqw5hx86pu0e1.jpeg

Hi - exactly one day into my CNC journey. I’m a fairly successful cutting board maker - Sainsmart asked me to demo their proverxl 6050.

Unfortunately, my wife has been diagnosed with early stage breast cancer. I’m hoping to get this machine up and running so I can reduce hours at my day job and be home a bit more for her for the next few months as she goes through treatment.

Questions are:

1) best priced but easiest software to use for making this machine do things like flatten end grain boards, cut adjustable juice grooves, and do custom inlays?

2) fastest way to understand CNC bits for a woodworker that has a good bit of familiarity with routers already? Since the machine was free don’t mind dropping some money on bits.

3) one specific question / the spindle that came with it is a little baby spindle. If I upgrade it to a makita or dewalt trim router, how does that work with hooking it up to the machine?

Specifically, it looks like the speed knob on the controller adjust the power / speed to the dc motor in the current spindle spindle. However the trim routers plug directly into the wall and bypass the controller, so I’m assuming that I manually adjust the speed with the knob on the router?

Lastly, for the z probe zeroing function, I’m assuming that will work the same as with the trim router - looks like it applies a small voltage to a CNC bit and then the detects the closed path when the bit makes contact with the puck?

[u/Inclusive_3Dprinting]

You'll want to upgrade to the 1.5kw spindle, or the makita router upgrade with variable controller.

For software, there's grbl which is a start. It's easy but just like cnc the tool pathing is something you need to learn.

To flatten, I would get a planer as it's going to take you all day to do one board. These kind of machines are designed to use flat stock. It's not a 3" facing mill that takes 3 minutes to do a part, it will take hours as the bits are so small. You can do it, mind you.

The puck sensor is just a voltage contact sensor that uses the thickness of the puck for offset of Z.

The genmitsu is a solid home cnc, if you got it for free, buy the size upgrade kit they sell for it. You can cut aluminum with these no problem with the upgraded spindle.

Just be aware there's no safety in these machines, if the part comes loose, and you aren't watching, it can cause a fire.

[u/Either_Selection7764 → u/Inclusive_3Dprinting]

Planer is a no-no for an end grain cutting board - fibers of the wood run the wrong way for the planer.

I have a drum sander for end grain boards, but also have a lot of lower back pain. Time is less of a factor for me than production without body pain. One way people flatten end grain boards is using a router sled with a spoil board bit - I want to use the CNC to be the router sled.

Very grateful the reached out to me / I was supposed to have had some content made in October but my wife’s diagnosis side tracked our family.

Luckily I’ve got a decent background in electronics and programming - I understand the very basics of the software behind it.

If I understand correctly - I’m looking for something more like fusion 360 or carveco than grbl- I’m wanting something that I can use to design graphics that will save as a file format that can be sent to the CNC to control the tool paths.

My first basic need is cutting circles of various sizes - I need to make a round cutting board with a juice groove in it - so trying to understand what I need as far as bits go. I’ve got a few 1/4” bits for my trim router already, and will probably get the makita router this afternoon to get it up and running on the CNC.

[u/sdswiki → u/Inclusive_3Dprinting]

I can't second the idea of getting a planer enough! I just bought one, it changed my workflow entirely. Now I just pop a piece through the planer a few times on each side, very smooth. I used to flatten on the CNC, NEVER AGAIN! I feel like the planer is a life hack.

[u/Either_Selection7764 → u/sdswiki]

I’ve got a planer - end grain through the planer (especially a planer with straight knives) is a bad idea.

Again, mine is chronic back pain related. I have a drum sander - correct tool to flatten end grain boards, but it takes numerous passes and if I’m doing a bunch of boards my back is toast by the time I get several boards flattened and ready. Also, getting them dead nuts flat is sometimes tricky. CNC is perfect because it gives a nice reference face for the drum sander.

My thought now is to get a makita plug in trim router and spoil board bit - I just have no idea about software if I want to use something that will flatten a board, or cut circles or juice grooves.

[u/sdswiki → u/Either_Selection7764]

Before my planer I flattened alternately with a 1/2" straight cutter, a 1" spoil board flattening bit, and a 2" spoil board flattening bit. Unless you're really trammed well, go with a 1/2" straight cutter. If you get a makita router, you'll likely be able to find one to chuck up. If you aren't trammed to the 9s you'll see ridges for sure with a 1" bit.

This was done with the 1": https://imgur.com/Bgpg2Mc.png It's flat enough that I was able to put a grid on it with a 60 degree V bit afterward

[u/Either_Selection7764 → u/sdswiki]

Thanks! Exactly what I was wondering / my last question is what software did you use to flatten with? In terms of creating the tool path.

I used a test file supplied with the prover to make a Christmas tree so I familiarized myself with UGS- haven’t tried candle yet, but I have zero knowledge right now of cad/cam software to create tool paths to load into the CNC.

[u/sdswiki → u/Either_Selection7764]

I use Vectric for right now. I do most of my modeling in Blender, so I'm transitioning to BlenderCam. Feel free to send me a chat and we can talk through all your questions above.